1935 Briggs Model Y
I've been looking for a Y for some time. Finally I was in the right place at the right time.
-------------------------------------------------------------
One of the unique features on the Y is the flywheel mounted to the crankshaft with a bolt that runs through the hub and the crank. After removing the bolt and the starter drive, and marking the hub and shaft for proper reassembly, we're ready to pull the flywheel.
The original flywheel puller had two pins that fit into the two holes in the sides of the flywheel hub, and a screw through the center to press on the end of the crankshaft. The manual from the 30's says it was available from the factory for 35 cents. I wonder what that would translate to in today's money? Anyway, here is my solution.
I picked up this cheap puller at Advance Auto Parts for $5.00 It their part number 78888. Cut the angle end off and drilled and tapped 3/8-18 holes in the ends. Then I cut the heads off of two 3/8-18 bolts and threaded them out forming the pins on the inside. Then I screwed nuts on the protruding threads for a little extra support. I ended up with this.
As the picture shows it worked just fine.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
That yellow dot below the fuel inlet on the carburetor is what's left of the needle. It's broken off flush with the carb body and stuck tight. I'll have to drill it out and hope I can save the threads.
That didn't go too bad. Here is the repaired, cleaned and reassembled carb. I put a needle from a WMB in it. It shuts off. We'll find out later if it will regulate the mixture well enough to make it run.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Mag Plate concerned me. Being 71 years old I didn't know if the ignition components would still be good. So I tackled it first.
The pictures are before and after. I totally disassembled the plate and cleaned all the components. The coil and condenser both test good. There were two splices in the coil wire to the points that were just twisted together and wrapped with old friction tape. I soldered the splices and used heat shrink tubing to cover them up. The high tension wire to the coil is NOT soldered! It's just wrapped through the lug on the coil and crimped tight. I tested it and it does produce a nice blue spark.
-------------------------------------------------------
The cylinder and head will take a lot of cleaning up. Lots of carbon to scrape. It's no wonder the exhaust valve was stuck. The spark hole in the side of the head where the plug screws in is open and relatively clean.
Here's the cleaned block after it's first trip to the wash tank.
--------------------------------------------------------------
The head and cylinder have been cleaned up at this point.
And here is the complete engine disassembled and cleaned. Next I'll be working on the block it's self. I will reseat the valves and hone the cylinder. Then I'll be ready to begin the paint prep. I'm only 4 days into this project. It's coming along much faster then I had anticipated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Very few new parts will be going into this engine. The gaskets will all be new. The original magneto plate gasket appeared to have been asbestos. I cut a new .015 thick gasket to replace it. The base and breather valve cover gaskets were cut from .030 thick material. The head gasket was purchased.
The original spark plug was a Champion 8 COM I have not been able to locate any New Old Stock yet. For now it will get a Champion D16. Big plug for a 1/2HP engine. For comparison it is shown next to a standard J19LM lawnmower plug.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
After painting the assembly. The rod cap screws are torqued to 140 inch pounds. The base plate was then bolted on.
The mag plate was bolted on next, followed by the flywheel and starter clutch assembly.
Here's a good look at the carb and governor linkage.
The kick pedal bumper was deteriorated beyond salvage. I used the rubber from a 1-1/8" expansion plug to replicate the original.
This was my first attempt at restoring a brass ID tag. I redid the black lacquer background. It's not perfect, but we'll get better.
The starter clutch cover was also missing. Thanks to an e-mail from my buddy Bob, with pictures and dimensions, I was able to replicate one. This is the rough fabrication before painting.
---------------------------------------------------------------
The Finished Pictures
And with the starter clutch cover.
It will be a week for the paint to cure. Next weekend we'll be starting it up.
And finally here's the engine mounted to the running stand I built for it. Click the film icon for a short video of it being started up.