1934 Maytag Model 92M
This Model 92M was won on an eBay auction. It was close to home so I drove to pick it up and got started on the restoration the same day.
The serial number of 524536 indicates this engine was manufactured in January 1934. That make this the oldest engine in my collection, followed by my 1935 Briggs Model Y.
The 92 is a hit n miss engine. The picture above shows the governor assembly. The round pin opposite the spring opens the points as the flywheel rotates past them. When the engine speed increases enough for centrifugal force to overcome the spring tension, then cam pivots outward. With the cam out the pin clears the points and the engine will not fire. As the engine speed slows the spring pulls the cam back in allowing the engine to fire again. That cycle continues to govern the engine speed.
The magneto plate only required a good cleaning up. I filed the point cleans and flat, and replaced the high tension wire. After adjusting the point to .020" I got a spark!
This original Champion spark plug is in good condition. It cleaned up reasonably nice, and it works. I'll attempt to reuse it.
Only broken part in the entire engine is the middle piston ring. The engine will run with just two rings, but I will be ordering a new set for it. Since the engine doesn't need to be totally disassembled to replace the rings I won't have to wait to put it back together. The cylinder bore looks fine. The ports have all been cleaned at this point.
All the painted parts have been repainted to the original green. I used Krylon Hunter Green. It's a close match.
The carburetor is a simple affair. The check ball in the pick up tube was stuck. It took some patient work with carb cleaner and low pressure air to free it up. The rest of the parts were cleaned and the carb was reassembled.
The gaskets are all hand cut, as they are for all my restorations.
The starter pedal brake was seized up. After disassembling and cleaning things up it is working properly again.
The Assembly
The assembly begins with the fuel tank base being mounted to the cover, using the new gasket. All the bolts are in except for the one long one. It also mounts the starter ratchet cover, so it will go in later.
With this being a 2-stroke engine, an air leak in the crankcase could keep it from drawing enough fuel to run. For that reason all the gaskets going onto the crankcase will be dressed with a thin coat of Permatex #2. With the gasket dressed the magneto side bearing cover goes on next.
Moving to the other side of the engine, the felt seal and original spacer shims go onto the starter side of the crankshaft.
The starter ratchet is then slipped on and the tapered pin that retains it is driven in.
With the crankshaft secured, the connecting rod and cap are installed. Never reuse a cotter key. One that has bent open then closed again is weakened enough to break. Making sure everything is still moving freely, it's ready for the cylinder to be mounted. The base gasket will be dressed with Permatex.
When mounting the cylinder you need to be sure the ring splits are not in line with each other, and that the splits will not pass over the intake or exhaust ports in the cylinder. Again checking all the time to be sure nothing is binding anywhere.
Next I mounted the carburetor with the caution plate and air filter. All the gaskets here were also dressed to prevent air leaks.
The four ratchet balls are placed into the ratchet by standing the engine up on it's side. Then the starter gear and it's cover are installed. Another new cotter to hold the gear in place.
The pedal and gear segment can then be slid on, followed by the cover. Now that last bolt goes into the tank base.
The magneto plate is secured with a clamping screw on the back side of the plate, as shown in the first picture. The second picture is of the mag plate mounted to the engine.
With the woodruff key in place we're ready to finish this assembly up. The flywheel is mounted and a new cotter is placed through the castle nut. Another quick check for spark and we're about done.
Now can I wait for the paint to cure before I try to fire it up??? I've built a makeshift running stand so I am ready!
The exhaust for this engine would have originally been a flexible metal hose with a cast iron ball in the end if it, that was run through a hole in the wall to keep the fumes out of the house. Needing some type of a muffler I made up this homemade adapter to accept a standard 3/4" pipe thread muffler.
Using the exhaust flange on the engine as a template I made a matching flange from 1/4" thick flat stock. I drilled the holes first, then cut it out in a diamond shape, leaving stock to grind it to finish shape on a bench grinder. Then I welded a 3/4" merchant coupler to the flange, and painted it to match the rest of the engine.
Here is the final result. Amazing what you can do with a drill press, a few grinders and a lot of patience.
I found some good pictures of the decals, so I decided to make them myself. Here are the results:
The third picture shows a good view of my homemade kill switch rod. It was made from a section of a wire coat hanger. It's a machinist's thing. You make what you need out of what you've got to get the job done.
OK I waited about 3 hours that was long enough. I mixed 2 ounces of non-detergent 30 weight oil with 32 ounces of gasoline and filled it up. Kicked it once and it sputtered. Kicked it the second time and it took off.
Click the icon below for the video
First video is without the muffler. The Running video is with the muffler attached.
All that's needed are a few finishing touches.
At the Nittany Antique Machinery Association Show, I found this new Champion X spark plug and Oak Pattern cloth covered spark plug wire. Both are original to the Model 92.
Now I need a machine to put it on. Here's a picture of the typical Maytag washer with the engine.
Maybe someday????